Across the Scottish Highlands - the perfect road trip to Scotland

A trip to Scotland - is that even worth it? Harsh weather, plenty of rain, and mist-covered mountains. Sheep and Highland cattle graze on the lush green meadows of northern Britain, while a few men in checkered kilts play their bagpipes nearby — you really have to like that kind of thing if you're going to spend your vacation here.

Why Is a Road Trip to Scotland Worth It?Beyond the many legends and myths, Scotland is a land steeped in history. The remnants of ancient castles and fortresses can be found in almost every town. The further north you go, the more remote and sparsely populated the landscape becomes. The Highlands are not easily tamed — their steep hills, once home to the Celts, are now mostly inhabited by sheep. In fact, there are over 7 million sheep in Scotland, compared to just over 5 million people.

It’s precisely this low population density that many long for — a chance to escape the stress of everyday life. Scotland offers hundreds of hiking trails, wild camping thanks to the right to roam, and cozy pubs with live music. Add to that the unmistakable peaty, malty scent drifting from the Scotch distilleries. Visiting one of them is highly recommended, by the way!Sláinte! Cheers – or as the Germans say: Prost!

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Our route from Germany

Day 1: London Is Calling

Together with two friends, I set off by car towards the island. We leave early in the morning and reach the French port city of Calais not long after. We had already booked our Eurotunnel ticket online — a straightforward process where you simply choose the day, time slot, and suitable fare. Just make sure you have a valid travel document for border control. In our case, that meant a passport.The one-way trip to Folkestone costs around €50 per person, and after a quick 45-minute train ride through the tunnel, we continue by car for about two more hours to reach our first stop: London.

For me, London was a completely new experience — and I was quite overwhelmed by the sheer size and energy of the city. It had been a long time since I’d last visited a metropolis of this scale. Since it was just a quick stop-over for us, I didn’t put much effort into booking a fancy place to stay. In fact, I tried to keep the price as low as possible — which isn’t exactly easy in London.Prices here are definitely higher than in Germany. I’d estimate that, overall, the UK is up to 50% more expensive. At the time of our trip (June 2024), the exchange rate was about £1 = €1.18.

A Quick Price Comparison (as of June 2024):

• Beer in a pub: Pint (~0.5L) ≈ £6 → ~€7.20

• Shot of Scotch: £7–8

• Supermarket (e.g. baked beans, store brand): ~£1

• Coffee to go: from £3.50 upwards

• Fish & chips (takeaway or simple restaurant):Chips ~£4–5, Fish ~£4–5

• Parking in Edinburgh:~£30 for 24 hours in a garage (street parking would’ve cost roughly the same)

Day 2: Bender Bingo in Glasgow

Since we had another long travel day ahead of us — with Glasgow as our next destination — we hit the road early. Just outside of London, we stopped at a cozy café for a quick breakfast before continuing the roughly 400-mile journey north.

As the passenger, I had the luxury of diving deep into my book, The Big Five for Life — a truly inspiring and highly recommended read, by the way.

Later in the evening, we arrived in Glasgow, checked into our accommodation without a hitch, and decided to explore the city a bit.

Looking for a pub to grab a casual drink, we stumbled upon Katie's Bar. The security at the door asked if we were here for Bingo Night. What we didn’t realize at first was that this wasn’t your ordinary bingo — it was Bender Bingo! A wild, LGBTQ-friendly version hosted by Katie, a charismatic trans woman. I honestly hadn't laughed that hard in ages — pure entertainment!If you ever find yourself in Glasgow, make sure to check out this bar. Highly recommended.

Day 3: Finally – the Highlands!

At last — the Highlands! I couldn’t take my eyes off the scenery. After a winding ascent into the highlands, we made our first stop at a small gorge near a waterfall. While stretching our legs, I was already daydreaming about setting up camp here. But our actual destination lay further north.

The landscape reminded me so much of Norway — lush meadows, rolling hills, and countless streams and waterfalls. Just as I was soaking in the tranquility, a fighter jet suddenly roared overhead at what felt like arm’s length, leaving behind an ear-splitting boom. A surreal moment in such peaceful surroundings.

Not long after, we arrived at the car park near the Ben Nevis Visitor Centre, the base for exploring Scotland’s highest mountain. We discovered many of the hiking trails here using the Komoot app, by the way. We packed our backpacks and camping gear for the upcoming overnight stay — but first, there was a hike ahead.

Heavily loaded, we made our way up a well-maintained trail, climbing about 320 meters in elevation. Eventually, we found a quiet spot in a patch of forest that was once part of Fort Dun Deardail. Across the valley stood the mighty Ben Nevis.

As the sun began to set, I headed off for a solo photo walk, soaking in the golden light and the magic of the Highlands.

Day 4: Isle of Skye

A bit chilled from the night, we wake up early and quickly break down our camp after a simple breakfast. Back at the car, we pack everything in and head towards the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. Steam trains are said to pass by at specific times: 10:45 AM, 1:20 PM, 3:10 PM, and 6:05 PM. We might just make it in time for the 1:20 train.

From the busy car park, we hike briskly to a good vantage point where several photographers are already waiting, cameras ready. But… nothing happens. I ask a few fellow visitors, and they mention they heard the schedule might’ve changed for the day. A pity — but still, a stunning spot worth the visit.

From there, we have a decision to make: take the ferry to the Isle of Skye or drive the long way around. The ferry from Mallaig is clearly the quicker option, so we head there and grab a stand-by ticket for €26. If there's space left, we’re on — if not, we wait.Luckily, we make it — among the last three cars to be allowed on board.

Arriving in Armadale, it’s already late afternoon. We check for possible campsites and head toward Portree, where we found a promising spot on Google Maps. After an hour’s drive, we learn the site is fully booked. Other nearby sites are full as well.Wild camping is legal in Scotland, but not every location is ideal — uneven ground, strong winds, or simply no flat surface at all can make it tricky.

Eventually, we find a scenic spot — beautifully remote but completely exposed to the wind. You can’t have it all.That evening gave us one of the most beautiful sunsets of the entire trip — but also one of the coldest nights we experienced. A perfect reminder of the wildness and wonder that is the Isle of Skye.

Day 5: Old Man of Storr

If you've done even the slightest bit of research on the Isle of Skye, you've probably come across the Old Man of Storr — and for good reason! Naturally, I wanted to see these iconic rock formations with my own eyes.

After our usual morning routine — breakfast and a quick freshen-up — we broke down our camp once again and hit the road.Arriving at the visitor car park, it was immediately clear: we weren’t the only ones with this idea today. The place was already buzzing with tourists.

We paid around £5 for the parking ticket and started the hike. Once again, Komoot helped us compare the available routes. Due to time constraints, we opted for the fastest one — starting with steps, then transitioning into a well-maintained trail leading up to the main viewpoint.

Roughly 5 kilometers, 320 meters of elevation, and countless “WOW” moments later — we made it.And yes, it’s every bit as spectacular as you’d imagine.

It's especially windy here on the coast today, and I’ve already come close to losing my cap more than once.

What’s really frustrating, though, is that I just can’t get my tripod stable enough for a long exposure shot. After several failed attempts and some creative problem-solving, I finally manage to make it work.

Old Man of Storr

On the way to our next overnight stop, we make a quick stop in Portree for a snack.

For me, it's my first time trying Haggis. Let's just say… it's an acquired taste. Very rich and intense.

Interesting for sure — but one portion is more than enough for now.

Day 6: Loch Ness

For the evening, we had reserved a spot at a campsite — a great opportunity to properly clean our camping gear and maybe even treat ourselves to a hot shower.

To round off the night, we headed into the village of Dornie for a beer and were pleasantly surprised to find live music at the local pub — traditional Scottish folk tunes that added a perfect touch to the evening.

Of course, we couldn’t resist stopping at one of the most famous lakes in the world — Loch Ness. It's right along the route to Inverness, the capital of the Highlands and the northernmost point of our journey.

Since the weather forecast was… well, miserable, we once again opted for a proper campsite:Bunchrew Caravan Park — a lovely site with free hot showers, located just 10 minutes from Inverness city centre by car or bus.

The man at reception was incredibly helpful and even called us a taxi, as we wanted to catch the Germany vs. Scotland Euro match at a local pub.

Our taxi driver, Wayne MacKenzie, turned out to be a real character. He told us all about his wild days as a bassist touring Europe in his twenties and shared a few local tips — one of which led us to Platform 8, a classic sports bar with an awesome vibe.

We found ourselves surrounded by blue-and-white-clad Scotland fans, watching the opening game — which ended in a 5–1 win for Germany. When Scotland scored their one goal, the entire pub erupted in celebration.What a fantastic atmosphere!

Day 7: "Uisge Beatha – The Water of Life"

We decided to stay another full day in Inverness — and this time, we could finally leave the tent pitched, which honestly saves a surprising amount of time and energy.

For Saturday morning, we had booked a distillery tour at Tomatin. Since it was the weekend, production had paused — but that meant we got a private tour with our guide, Issie.

Over the course of 90 minutes, Issie walked us through the history of whisky, the story behind the Tomatin brand, and each step of the production process. She put particular emphasis on the role of the Master Distiller, whose work essentially determines the final quality of the whisky.

After exploring the distillery, which employs around 72 people, we entered a very special place: the Sensory Room. For about an hour, we were introduced to the art of whisky tasting and sampled six different Scotch whiskies.

One method that really stuck with me was the "two drops of water" trick:Just two drops can soften the harshness of the spirit and release entirely new aromas in the glass. What might have been a barely drinkable whisky can transform into a true delicacy — all thanks to a couple of drops of water.

In the afternoon, the sun finally came out and we enjoyed a long walk through Inverness. Unfortunately, the castle was under scaffolding, so we could only catch glimpses of the beautiful historic architecture.

Side fact:The whisky industry contributes roughly £5.8 billion to the UK economy and provides jobs for around 40,000 people. With Scotland’s GDP at about £155 billion, whisky exports account for nearly 4% of it.

Day 8: One Last Night in the Wild

The end of our 10-day journey is slowly approaching. We had already booked a hostel in Edinburgh for the second-to-last night, so we were now looking for a good spot to camp — somewhere halfway between Inverness and Edinburgh.

Roughly 2.5 hours south of Inverness, we set our sights on the Ben Lawers Dam. According to Google Maps, it's roughly the halfway point — and it looked wild enough to promise a proper last night under the open sky.

We found a small hikers' car park, geared up in our rainproof clothing (the weather was rough: stormy and rainy), and prepared our backpacks for one final night of wilderness camping.

Everything we’d need for the night went into our packs, and off we went. We followed the road for about 5–6 kilometers until we spotted a gentle hill to our right. Just above it, we could make out what looked like a rocky outcrop — that would be our spot for the night.

Today is by far the windiest day of the entire trip.The storm lashes against our tents with full force.After a short exploration to a nearby waterfall, the rain finally starts to ease — and to our surprise, the day rewards us with one last beautiful sunset.

Day 9: Edinburgh

Despite the stormy night, we somehow manage to sleep in quite a bit — and only manage to break down our camp shortly before noon. But timing works out just fine: check-in at our hostel isn’t until 3 PM anyway, and we wouldn’t have reached the Scottish capital much earlier.

We eventually find a parking spot in a hotel parking garage — a modest £30 per day, thankfully split three ways!

Check-in goes smoothly, and we settle into our accommodation. A bed in a 12-person dorm costs around €26 per person. To be honest, the setup feels more like a prison block than a cozy hostel — but the bathrooms and showers are clean, and at this price, we really can’t complain.

We explore the city in a bit of a whirlwind tour, and once again, I’m completely blown away by its charm. The historic facades transport me straight into another era. Edinburgh truly has a unique atmosphere.

Later in the evening, we head to a restaurant we had reserved in advance — The Queen’s Arms, a cozy pub serving traditional British fare.I go for Loaded Fries and Mac & Cheese, which turns out to be the tastiest meal I’ve had in days.

Day 10: Folkestone

The night was short, hot, and loud. Around 2:30 AM, some of our dorm mates slammed the door shut and woke me up. That’s when I realized just how stuffy and warm the room had become — not to mention the chorus of snoring from all corners.I barely got any sleep until our alarm went off at 6 AM.Can we please fast-forward this part?

A long drive was ahead: we were heading back to Folkestone, the town where the Eurotunnel begins. The satnav predicted around 8 hours on the road — maybe I could catch up on a bit of sleep.

The drive itself was uneventful. When we finally arrived in this sleepy little town, we quickly noticed that everything felt a bit run-down. As if someone had stopped investing in the place altogether.Many paths along the promenade were closed off or in disrepair, there were construction sites and empty storefronts everywhere. And then there was this massive blocky building right by the sea — offering apartments for sale at £500,000 and up… yet not a single one appeared to be occupied.

Our hotel room also felt pretty worn down. Old water stains on the ceiling and walls didn’t inspire much confidence.“Well… it’s just for one night,” we told ourselves.

We spent the evening at a Nepalese restaurant, trying out some Asian cuisine one last time — and the food was absolutely fantastic. I had mildly spicy chili momos, and they were an absolute dream!

One final time, I grabbed my camera and went for a sunset photo walk, before heading back to the hotel.The next morning at 10:30 AM, our train back to Calais was scheduled.Germany was waiting.

Costs

Originally, we had planned this as a low-budget trip — but in the end, we each spent around €1,000.

That included about €200 for the whisky tour and tasting, plus a bottle to bring home.Then there was the Eurotunnel, which cost around €110 per person for the round trip.

For accommodation, we paid roughly €135 per person — including 3 nights in hotels and 1 night in a hostel.Add another €30 for campsites (3 nights in total).

Parking fees also added up quickly — for example, €36 per day in Edinburgh, and most attractions required a paid parking ticket as well.

The remaining €500? That went into food, drinks, and going out.There’s definitely room to save here — skip the pub beers and coffee-to-go, and you’ll notice a difference. A proper English breakfast rarely costs under £10.

Fuel prices were roughly the same as in Germany.

Final Thoughts: Scotland by Car

I’m absolutely fascinated by Scotland.I would’ve loved to keep exploring the Highlands, dive deeper into the cities’ history, and spend more nights listening to folk tunes in cozy pubs.

The laid-back nature of the Scots is contagious, and the Right to Roam invites you to truly connect with nature.

It honestly feels like I’m not quite done here.I’ll be back.

What about you —Would you hit the road through Scotland?

Leave a comment below, what's your favorite part of Scotland?

See you next time,

Joris